A couple of notes that are important. This building is part of the Galataport Promenade which is an enclosed area of buildings along a long, rare uninterrupted walkway aligned the straight which has specific entrances for security. Confused and looking for a way to access the water to get the view from that side, I wandered determined even after a long day of exploring and in the direction of Karaköy Güllüoğlu – Nadir Güllü where I had marked a stop in for gluten free baklava. I’m pretty sure that if I were to have a last meal- baklava would be on my short list. It was delicious- you can’t go to Turkey and not eat it. Yum- just writing about it gives me a happy feeling but I digress. The closest entrances to the museum are through this shop or thereabouts or at the edge of the surrounding park. There are other security points at the very far end near here.
As for this Renzo, I wanted to reflect back on the others I had been to. His work is always smart, practical and the stairs are always in an evident and clear place. Much of the modern work has clearly adopted computer rendering programs to create newfound shapes, but his work seems almost as if still anchored in pen and paper- which I have a great respect for. When I go to one of his buildings, I am never wowed- but when I leave, I feel like the building has done a service to humanity.
Take the elevator and head straight to the top. A little cafe and what a view- the water on the roof reflecting refractions guiding the eye outward. Walking around this area was like arriving in some alternate universe (like area in Portland between 21st and 22nd at NW Quimby through NW Thurman) – a fully newly constructed neighborhood full of contemporary urban planning. If I lived here or close to here, I would certainly be a member of this museum if only to access this rooftop for a Turkish coffee, a book and a literal and metaphorical reflection.
This is an excellent collection of work at this museum- though I did not feel as bamboozled as I did in Brazil by my lack of education on the work- I was humbled still. Of note is Refik Anadol. The craziest thing is that a couple years ago, I was talking to a distant relative which is better versed in art than I am and I wrote down a couple notes in passing of some art and film she recounted as noteworthy. Every now and again, I would come across that note and do nothing about it. On this trip- between Istanbul and Zurich- I came across Refik’s work of which his name was one that she passed along and I only connected the dots after I came back. Just incredible how the universe delivers to us that which needs our attention. This exhibit- I think because of its permanent home- is a better execution of his application of AI in art, but I would assume any demonstration of his thinking would be an absolute must to see. I love observing that which is made because sometimes it is such a feat of math and science that we can fight entropy to create something so seamless.
His exhibition spaces in his museums always prioritize the art- a job well done. Note on stairwell well demonstrated above.
Now, even real people seem fake. Thanks AI. I visited this place twice- I hope to visit again. I didn’t fall in love with Istanbul, but as cities go, it is impressed me a great deal. I don’t need to make a plan to return, because like with coming across Refik’s work, I know that with no effort our paths will cross again. When I used to think of Istanbul, I thought of its old age, like Rome, carrying the markers of human culture through all the centuries. But as with my recent travels to Rome, if you make the effort to step away from the obvious, one quickly finds that the city of Istanbul is still carrying these markers but in all the new and progressive ways too.
p.s. I got chills going to the RPBW – putting on the subconscious investigate list.
Address: Kılıçali Paşa, Tophane İskele Cd. No:1/1, 34433 Beyoğlu/İstanbul, Türkiye
Website: RPBW write up
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